Tory Burch in Tory Burch
Photo: Rabbani and Solimene/Getty Images
Backstage at Tory Burch spring 2013
Photographed by Mimi Ritzen Crawford
Go to Vogue.com for the full collection and review.
by Mark Holgate
Photo: Courtesy of Tory Burch
The received wisdom on pre-fall goes like this: The clothes are on the racks for a good six months, spanning a time period that switches from summer to fall to winter, so everything has to be a little schizophrenic regarding what’s in the collection. A cotton sundress light enough for anywhere on the equator … and a chill-beating fur and leather trench? And why not? If that wasn’t challenging enough, then what if, like Tory Burch, you’re busy expanding globally—she just opened in Hong Kong; London is next, right beside the recently inaugurated Miu Miu store on New Bond Street—and you’re acutely aware that it’s cold (or hot) somewhere in the world, and you have to design your label accordingly?
“What sells in America is different from Asia, which is different from Europe,” Burch said Tuesday morning at her West Nineteenth Street showroom, “but certain things do well wherever the store is.” That would be dresses and bags—and there were plenty in her pre-fall, with the former in ikat and wallpaper florals. The dresses are for the most part worn layered up with striped French sailor shirts, scrunched down kneesocks, and—a nostalgic step back in time for the designer—her update on the woven leather sandals she wore in high school. Did she wear hers with socks too? Burch laughed. “No, but I wish I had done.” It’s her vision of globalism, and an eclectic, deliberately mismatched idea of it at that. When it comes to getting dressed in 2011, things look like they are going to get a lot busier.